Keep in mind that when using red wigglers, you should maintain a ½ pound of worms for every cubic foot of bin space for optimum composting. Red wiggler worms mature in 3 months, which means they can match up and begin making worm babies to ensure the future of your compost bin.
Consider a bin with 500 worms at the outset, with an average of three cocoons a week and about 3 hatchlings per cocoon, one red wiggler worm can produce up to 468 hatchlings of their own in one year. The equivalent of the skinny guy on the beach with sand kicked in his face.
Vermicomposting is the use of worms for the breakdown of food and other discarded organic waste into compost or liquid fertilizer. These worm feeds on organic waste materials and passes it through their digestive tract and convert it into a granular form which is known as cocoons that are though vermicompost.
The chemical secretion of the earthworm digestive tract will help to breakdown the soil and organic matter and contain more nutrients that are readily available to the plants. They eat 10 % of soil and 90% of organic waste material and convert into vermicomposting faster than other worms.
Scientific research proves that on a small scale they can produce 5-10 tons vermicompost annually while on a large scale they produce more than hundreds of tons of compost annually. Mostly prefer to live in colonies and can handle high density in a worm bin.
Play a role in organic farming: The red worm casting contains a higher concentration of macro and micronutrients than the garden compost. It also lessens the crusting and other physical damage common to the soil of the arid climate.
In this way, landfills are the second-largest producer of methane gas which had a great role in global warming. By using red worm composting you reduce the production of methane and save our earth from global warming effects.
Studies show it contains 4-5% more nitrogen than the average garden soil, but it is slow to release due to mucous secret as they digest the biological waste. Unlike vermicompost, it also applies to the top of plant foliage, reportedly to enhance the disease suppression.
Vermicompost tea is also applied to the soil as a supplement between compost application to extend the biological activity. Supplemental income: If you can rear red worm properly then you can utilize them to form good quality vermicompost for business purposes.
You do not need to worry about end suppliers because it includes nurseries, landscape contractors, greenhouses, garden supply stores, flower shops, and the public. Economical: Using red worms you can form compost in a short period of time.
By using it you can physically implement three R (reducing, reusing and recycling) into your lifecycle through red worm composting. It will avoid tipping fees for green waste implemented by many landfills' diversion.
It should be shallow rather than deep because red worms prefer to live in the top 6” of the soil. After the selection of a suitable container, next is to create a hospitable environmental condition which is usually known as bedding.
Bedding can be formed by using newspaper strips or leaves which hold moisture in the container and also aided with air spaces which are essential for worm growth. Before placing the bedding material ensure that they retain the moisture properly otherwise if the surrounding environment dries out then worms would not thrive because they respire through the skin.
Always provide the worms with shredded organic kitchen waste because as we know they do not have teeth, so they take more time for decomposition. Red worms are excellent at breaking down decaying organic materials, creating a nutrient-rich substance for your garden.
Placed directly into a garden with nothing for them to eat, red worms will likely die or move to other areas where they can find food and an environment more suitable for their needs. They thrive in shallow environments such as plastic bins, fitted with worm bedding, a little soil and the same types of matter you would use in a standard compost bin: yard clippings and plant-based kitchen scraps.
If you see worms atop the lawn or garden surface at night, it's these earthworms or nightcrawlers feeding upon decaying matter. Create a trench near the garden plants 6 to 8 inches deep -- it can be any length or width.
Shred a bunch of corrugated cardboard or newspaper to create a moisture-absorbing layer for the trench, then add some partially decomposed plant matter from the yard. Add some kitchen vegetable scraps, red worms and a layer of cardboard or yard matter atop that.
The worms will enjoy their new environment and recycle the decaying matter into nutrients for your garden plants. A simpler version involves placing decaying plant scraps around the garden, then adding worms, but this may be unattractive.
Add crumbled strips of newspaper and corrugated cardboard as worm bedding, a small bit of soil to help the worms' digestion and then scraps from yard plants and plant-based kitchen scraps. But before we identify which species are suitable, it’s helpful to understand how earthworms can differ from one another.
Earthworms fit into one of three classes based on their burrowing capabilities and the environments they inhabit: anemic, Erdoan, and epidemic. The luxurious terrestrial shown here is big, but isn’t a good composting worm.
Anemic worms are strong, vertical and horizontal burrowers who come to the soil’s surface to forage for organic matter to take back their home, capable of pulling whole leaves down into their tunnels which can extend 9 feet below the surface. Anemic worms like the common nightcrawlers (binomial name luxurious terrestrial) are excellent for your garden soil because they are strong enough to burrow in deep, compact soil, adding to the water distribution network beneath the surface.
Erdoan earthworms are horizontal “upper soil” burrowers who also rarely come to the surface, except to forage for food. They operate at shallower depths in the soil than anemic worms and form less stable burrows.
Epidemic earthworms inhabit surface soils, leaf litter, manures, and other loosely-packed environments. But because they live on or near the surface and tend to swarm microbe-rich organic wastes, they are excellent composters.
The Red Wiggler (binomial name arena fetid) is far and away the most common and easily-purchased composting worm in the US and Canada. Like most epidemic worms, the Red Wiggler is smaller and less muscular, and features a yellowish tail and banding throughout its body.
As it reproduces quickly, operates in a wide range of temperatures (55-95 °F), and is cheaper to purchase than other species, the red wiggler is the most appropriate choice for vermicomposters. The European Nightcrawler (binomial name arena forensic) is the larger cousin of the Red Wiggler.
It prefers a slightly cooler temperature, so it should be considered a second choice, but it is also an effective composter. While the “Euro” is large enough to double as a fishing worm, it also reproduces less quickly.
While it is a voracious composting worm, it prefers warmer, more tropical climates. Now most worm farmers in the US do not culture the Indian Blue intentionally, so it is difficult to purchase them.
But “Ants” require much warmer temperatures and may begin dying at 60 °F, making them unsuitable in cooler regions without a climate-controlled environment. It is a hardy worm and tolerant of the widest range of temperatures, especially in the cold.
Red wigglers, or Eugenia fetid, are the best compost worms. They live in close, highly populated conditions and don't burrow.
• They eat organic matter equivalent to half its weight. • It doesn't mind living in captivity and tolerates different temperatures, humidity and acidity.
All worms come with original bedding and small amount of special formulated food already mixed in the bedding. The worms are very comfortable in the original bedding and practically guaranteed to be happy until you put them in a new bin.