Best Nepenthes For Windowsill

Christina Perez
• Saturday, 19 December, 2020
• 8 min read

Nepenthe fiscal BE-3068 (Medium) For a window sill you need a plant that does not require a lot of intense light and can handle the typically dry air inside a house.

nepenthes robcantleyi nepenthes138 h434 i1109 photobucket albums 20highland
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It is no surprise that Mexican Pinguicula do well in this kind of environment, but many Nepenthe do nicely too. Houses present unique challenges for growing plants.

Unless you have a “modern” design house with high amounts of natural light or have an atrium or a sun room there are probably not many places in your house where you can grow plants that expect more than a minimal amount of light. Who wants to have a light fixture in front of a window presuming you can do it in the first place.

A second challenge for growing carnivores as houseplants is humidity. Most carnivorous plants do not require as much humidity as you might expect considering where they live in the wild.

I have had Nepenthe growth tips die from the cold draft off windows in the winter. I use a heavier soil mix than would be advised for plants in a greenhouse and keep the pots always sitting in water.

Pings need seasonal light queues in order to survive long term. You are not going to impress many of your non-carnivore friends with Pinguicula but generally a fine Nepenthe will get their attention, especially when you point out the pitchers where you have deposited dead flies.

nepenthes h434 i1109 nepenthes138 20highland photobucket albums
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Light intensity may also be a factor for species that normally grow in full sun. Generally lowland, partial sun species with thick, leathery leaves will stand up best to low humidity.

Nepenthe rafflesiana, N. bicalcarata, and N. truncate are good lowland species for beginners. Highland, non-fog forest Nepenthe should also do well as they will not have problems with cool temperatures in the winter.

What about other plants that some CP nurseries advertise in “window sill” collections? If your house is humid enough, and you have a window providing 4 hours of direct sun a day, that is great.

Saracens rose, Dionne muscular, Hephaestus follicular, and many Drovers species may do well. I suspect those plants will really need some supplemental lighting since they really do want full sun.

It's definitely growing much slower than the Nepenthe in my enclosure, but I still can't help but be impressed given the comparatively harsh conditions. Happy growing, you do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

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I found that a bit curious as he couldn't tell me what hybrid it was... Begs the question, how do you know it's intermediate then? Still though, it is my first effort with a Nepenthe in a windowsill and that particular pitcher “node” looked like it was going to do nothing for weeks, so I am pretty happy to see it finally starting to develop.

Globosa, N. spectacles, N. x hoovering, and N. singalong (seems to be the only one of the list having trouble currently.) I also have a few batches of Nepenthe seeds in process. This is what my windowsill grow space looked like before adding the N. Copeland: WindowsillNepenthes by Nebula, on Flickr.

Also talking with Ryan from Native Exotics, which is where I acquired my test subject. I, too, chose a cheaper unknown hybrid for fear of losing one of the plants I've been growing in my somewhat intermediate setup.

The pitchers and leaves seem to be quite long-lived and even when they start to go the process takes much longer than with my raising, maxima or Lady Luck. Same with the Lady Luck, however it began to pitcher in just a couple of months and has put out a bunch of new leaves.

The Miranda on the other hand has only put out three new leaves in that time, only one of which has even attempted to pitcher. Eventually I hope to move almost all of my current News to a rack under lights in the window the unknown hybrid is in, to make room in the enclosure for the highland and ultra highland plants I'm looking forward to trying.

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The plants are not thrilled, but since I can drop the night temperatures to around 60F during the hottest summer months, they remain in reasonable health until the arrival of winter. Given proper temperatures, most of these plants will take months to resume normal growth, let alone regain their former size.

Humidity, Watering, and Media: In better news, the other aspects of the cultivation of these plants are pretty easy to meet once the temperature issue is taken care of. They require high humidity (especially at night), which is easily achieved by growing them in an enclosed space (although make sure you have some air circulation in there as well).

Water should be low in TDS as with all other carnivorous plants (they can be fertilized with dilute orchid food though, which I will get into later) and the media should be kept airy, moist, and acidic. If you don't have enough live Sphagnum to put the plants in, a top dressing is also aesthetically pleasing and helps with ambient humidity.

Most of the species that I have placed into this category tend to skew more towards intermediate than true highland elevations. In nature, they generally experience daytime temperatures of 75-80F with a nighttime drop to 60-65F, although like always, these numbers will vary slightly depending on the species and the locality.

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