Your color choices when painting interior window sills are virtually unlimited. You can opt to blend them with the walls, contrast them or even highlight them with primary hues in a Bohemian style.
Regular wall paint seldom works well on window sills. It doesn't have enough body to protect the wood and, because sills present a horizontal surface, it's a magnet for dirt.
You need a gloss or semi-gloss acrylic or latex enamel that levels out to form a smooth surface and is easy to clean. Written by Lee Allende Even though interior trim doesn't cover much space compared to walls or ceilings, it's a small thing that really calls big attention to itself.
Since these are such high-impact areas, there are special trim paints you should buy for these critical surfaces. The only reason why it might be labeled “trim paint is to make it easier for consumers to identify.
Trim paint usually comes pre-ticked in bright white and in base colors that can be custom-tinted. Glossier paints have a tighter molecular structure, meaning smaller pores for dirt and other debris to work into it.
Thicker consistencies of paint help prevent sagging. Window trim, in particular, gets blasted with the sun, which can yellow the paint.
Oil-based trim paint gives superior, glass-like finishes, with minimal-to-zero brush marks, but at the cost of slow drying times, fumes, and solvent-based clean-up requirements. Because of its thick consistency, it's good at filling in minor holes.
Due to laws passed beginning around 2000, many localities now ban oil-based paints in sizes above quarts. Water-based trim paints afford easy clean up with soap and water.
Bear: Ultra Interior Semi-Gloss Enamel ; soap and water clean-up Benjamin Moore: Regal Classic Premium Interior Paint, Semi-Gloss Finish; 100% acrylic resin; soap and water clean-up Dutch Boy: Durable Cabinet, Door & Trim Interior/Exterior Paint + Primer; gloss enamel finish Gladden: Trim, Door & Furniture paint in high-gloss; oil-based; solvent clean-up Olympic: ICON Interior/Exterior Paint + Primer in high-gloss; soap and water clean-up Sherwin-Williams: Neoclassic Waterborne Interior Acrylic Enamel; soap and water clean-up Val spar: Ultra Interior Paint + Primer; soap and water clean-up For both interior and exterior trim, you’ll probably want to choose a paint with a glossy finish.
Window trim can be made from wood, vinyl, aluminum, or steel, and there’s no single coating that works with all. If you start with just any old can of paint, you could risk seeing the results of all your hard work flake off within the year.
Choosing a paint that’s compatible with your type of trim will help achieve results that last. Wood is the most common material used to trim both interior and exterior windows, and you won’t have any problem finding a good-quality paint.
Medium-Density Fiberboard (MDF) is becoming a popular material for interior window trim because it’s easy to install and resists moisture damage. Its impermeable surface won’t hold standard paint ; those suggested above would eventually peel off.
Check the weather forecast and choose a day when the temperatures will stay between 50 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Hotter than that, and the paint can dry too quickly, which can affect the quality of the finish.
(If you’ve just installed your window, you won’t have this trouble; skip ahead!) You can try scraping it out with the edge of the 6-in-1 paint scraper or a metal putty knife, but you’ll have better luck with the Caulk Aid from Hyde Tools.
On interior wood and MDF, as well as vinyl trim, use a household degreasing cleaner. For caulking to efficiently seal the seams and gaps in window trim, it needs to be applied and smoothed into the crack.
To achieve a professional-looking finish, run a bead of caulk in the seam (1/8 inch is usually sufficient) and then use the flexible padded tip on the Caulk Aid (on the end opposite its scraper) to smooth out the bead. If caulk builds up under the padded tip, just wipe it clean on a rag and continue to the end of the seam.
For unfinished trim, you’ll need to apply a coat of primer before the paint, using the following method for each application. For the best results on narrow strips of trim, opt for a small angled paintbrush like one from Richard Tools’ Mini Master Angular Touch Series instead of a flat paintbrush, which is more suitable for cutting in on large areas.
Any overprint or splatters seen on the windowpanes will detract from the appearance of the fresh coat, so you’ll want to clean those up. Cut along the outer edge of the Mini Guide with the 9 mm Snap-Off Blade Utility Knife.
After you’ve made this target line, use a glass razor scraper like Hyde Tools’ Glass Scraper with 5 Blades Stored in Handle to remove the paint from the windowpane. Position the blade parallel to the edge of the trim and, using a straight motion, scrape the stuck-on paint right off the glass.
The scraper features an ergonomic design to reduce hand fatigue when scraping and, as the name suggests, a ready supply of replacement blades in the handle in case you need to change one out on the job. With this trusty tool in hand, you’ll have sparkling clean glass without a trace of stray paint.
White window sills provide a clean, contemporary look. Wood window sills add classic style to any room, but if you want a clean, sleek, modern look, you might want to paint traditional wood window sills white.
Painting wood surfaces requires a bit of sanding and some specialized primer. TSP-based cleaners cut through the grime and oil that accumulate near windowsill surfaces.
Use painter's tape to protect the nearby window frame. Remove the painter's tape once the final coat has dried for 24 hours.
Putting a fresh coat of paint on your exterior windows in a simple way to make an instant improvement to your curb appeal. This guide will take you through the process of stripping old paint and repainting exterior shutters and trim.
Roll new putty into a thin tube shape and press it into the bare spots. Slide a damp finger along the putty in the other direction to remove any small imperfections.
Once new putty is applied, open the window and pull the top down until it’s about 3 inches from the sill. Return the sashes to their normal position and paint what you were unable to reach earlier.
Once painted, open the window slightly, leaving about a 1-inch gap at the top and bottom. Paint the window casing, covering nearby siding with painter’s tape.
Image Copyright:Scott SidlerThis week’s question comes from Dave in Minneapolis, MN. Dave, before you paint anything I recommend priming your wood windows with a good oil-based primer.
It provides a hard finish that won’t cause your windows to stick like water-based paints have a tendency to do. The downside is that they tend to yellow slightly over time and are more prone to mildew than water-based paint.
Inside that isn’t too much of an issue but painting outside in a humid climate will likely yield mildew problems. You MUST choose an enamel paint or else you will get windows that are constantly sticking in their jambs.
(update: 7/12/16 added sash track paint removal video; 6/20/12)Basic overall procedure to refurbish windows:(excerpt from) Remove heavy paint buildup from the sash channels (aka tracks).
To lubricate the bare wood of the channels, rub with solid wax (beeswax, or paraffin (candle wax)), or brush on a mixture of beeswax dissolved in turpentine, or paraffin dissolved in mineral spirits. The wax also acts as a water-repellent protecting the wood from water and deterioration when it is applied as a liquid.
Some liquid water-repellent preservative products may be suitable if they leave a slippery, not tacky, surface. Do not use “latex” or acrylic paint, which can remain tacky, or “block,” causing the sash to stick or jam.
I no longer use linseed oil because it is susceptible to mold and fungus attack. The mineral spirits evaporate leaving behind the resin that cures and consolidates loose fibers at, and just beneath, the wood surface.
After 24-48 hours the treated surface is dry to the touch and ready for light sanding or direct application of paint primer. Petrol is like a light varnish or like an alkyd resin oil-based paint without the pigment.
Storm Stain (made by California Paints) is a waterborne product that contains zinc Nathanael and a very tiny amount of resins. Zinc Nathanael is a preservative that limits mold, mildew and fungus.
After 24-48 hours the water has evaporated, the wood surface is dry, slightly tacky to the touch and ready for paint primer. If any bare wood was exposed during sanding, dust off and clean the surface with a tack rag or vacuum, and apply another coat of primer. To get good quality primer spend at least $25-35/gallon.
Hi John, in a thread in Historic Home Works on painting sashes you mentioned the following: “9b. Prime all surfaces of the entire sash with oil-based alkyd resin primer, except side edges and face margins.
Johnleeke Site Admin Posts: 168 Joined: Thu Aug 29, 2013 8:21 pm Interests:Location: Portland, Maine, USA Postby John Deere Mon May 25, 2015 7:46 pm Patrick, no I'm not too concerned about the perm rating for oil-base alkyd primers when using acrylic paints.
It's true that the primer will tend to limit the passage of water vapor, but that is far outweighed by the benefits it provides, such as good adhesion of the whole paint film system. John, I do not understand your classification of California's “Storm Stain” as a “waterborne” product.
I have used many of their formulas for years on my pine clapboard siding, garden furniture, windows, including my favorite, the 200-30 linseed oil stain. All their Storm Stain line will recommend mineral spirits clean-up and are most definitely oil based.
The wood sills had weather checks and a heavy paint buildup that was alligatored and ready to start flaking off. There was no money or time to set up for lead-safe work, strip the sills, fill the checks and repaint.
The coating encapsulated the lead paint making the sills safer. The coating easily peeled off each sill in one or two sheets taking 95% of the old paint buildup with it, right down to bare wood.
The coating had kept rain off the sills and the wood was very dry and with very little prep was ready for repairs and painting. As an expedient stabilization this coating was an unqualified success. I've used this method a couple of times since then with the same results. As always, test and develop in small areas before proceeding with the work to assure you will get the expected results.