This fragrance, ‘The Girl from Berlin’ in English, takes its inspiration from German actress Marlene Dietrich, known for her husky voice, sultry looks and sensuality. The fragrance aims to capture this with complex notes of rose, geranium, patchouli, honey and black pepper.
Lovers of soft musky scents should make a beeline for SergeLutens Clair de Musc. Clean, powdery and soft, the perfume contains notes of iris, musk and enroll in a delicate floral fragrance for both men and women.
Inspired by the opposition of good and evil, SergeLutens La Religious is a fusion of light and dark notes. Named after a deadly plant, SergeLutens Data Noir is an intoxicating fragrance offering keynotes of floral data, almond, coconut, tuberose and vanilla.
Sweet and floral, its heady notes make this a top evening scent. The combination of white flowers and soft musk make it a largely feminine fragrance perfect for summer.
SergeLutens Newt DE Cellophane pays homage to the scent of the white Malthus flower. Floral and fruity, it aims to capture the different accords of the flower, alongside notes of mandarin and jasmine.
Designed to embody a strong, dry, dusty desert wind, SergeLutens Cherub is a unisex fragrance with oriental and spicy notes. Cherub contains accords of tobacco leaf, honey, sandalwood, iris and amber in an unexpectedly sweet yet spicy fragrance.
Santa Majuscule has a certain darkness to it underneath the rich sandalwood with the bitter-sweetness of unprocessed cacao. Santa Majuscule is a SergeLutens scent which gives you a very dry element, that gets paired expertly with creamy and sweeter notes.
Though, this one is more feminine and sweet than is that Thierry Muller scent, Cherub is an ultra smooth and well blended perfume that lightens up one’s mood. The iris gives Cherub a powdery finish, which can be a good or bad thing, depending on your feelings towards the rest of the composition.
What a unique scent it’s full-bodied and woodsy with pine note being the main player. It has a dry sort of aroma to it but don’t think, ‘pine car freshener’, as the sweetness of the non-juicy fruits, brings an added layer of depth and intrigue.
File en Achilles kicks off with a mix of the pine (which will get stronger), fruits, and a spiciness from among other things, bay leaf. Later, the pine takes over fully, and you get an underlying smokiness from the incense and other woods.
By pushing people’s buttons and having something to say (and saying it well) Madonna has ensured that she is more than a just a star, she’s that rare commodity: an icon. I adore many of his back catalog greats (especially L’EAU Fronde, Tube reuse Criminally, Strains, Iris Silver Mist, Feminine du Boys, and Flours d’Orange) but many of the new ones have failed to resonate.
Everything he does looks, feels and smells like it comes from SergeLutens, especially the bottles for his perfumes, which in a strange way are a visual interpretation of his muse in glass. Uncle Serge, as he is often affectionally referred to, is a pioneer of the niche fragrance industry and boasts a range of perfumes that can only be described as phenomenal, which certainly made picking our scented weapons for this battle rather tricky.
What ensues is a wonderful discussion of dastardly florals, butt cracks, fragrant fireworks and animal poop. They are often orientals, gourmands and florals that smell otherworldly and are paired with poetic descriptions filled with riddles.
This year’s addition to the collection is Baptize Du Few, a battle-inspired fragrance that takes cues from the fairgrounds and gun ranges M. Lumens frequented as a child. To find out my thoughts on this latest installment in the SergeLutens saga, click here to read my review at Escentual.com.
Lumens latest fragrance, a jasmine-based scent (Uncle Serge’s third jasmine-centric outing) named ‘La Religious’ is certainly very good news. In each episode, we take a detailed look at a particular ingredient, analyzing its odor profile and the ‘must sniff’ perfumes that serve as reference examples within the genre.
The many fragrant trips in the series have seen us make stops at Planet Tuberose, Chocolate World and Lavender Moon. We’ve also taken journeys to discover the notes of Out, Orange Blossom, Violet and Lily.
This stuff is a vital building block in our perfumes and iconic fragrances such as Chanel’s Nº5 (a true legend) simply would be the same without it. For example, ‘Q’ stumped me for quite some time, until I thought that it could be representative of ‘Questions’ (as in fragrant FAQs), and I have absolutely no idea what I’m going to do for ‘X’ or ‘Z’, but they’re a little way off yet so let’s not panic.
Since the early ’90s, this olfactory enigma has been presenting us with some of the most beautiful, challenging, confusing and fascinating fragrances. He’s a man who speaks in riddles but presents olfactory tales in captivating prose.
It has, once again been a very busy year, and the hive of activity within the industry has meant that a great number of wonderful new olfactory treats have been unleashed on the noses of perfume lovers and consumers. Then in August I was promoted at work, and in September my new husband and I headed off to Tokyo for the honeymoon of a lifetime.
Under the jump you will find the winners, losers and honorable mentions filed under neat little categories. So please, don your tux or ball down, break open the Billy and take your seats for The Candies 2014.