Open and stir your wood stain with a stick until you achieve a smooth, even consistency. Wipe off the stain lightly and rapidly with clean cotton cloths or rags.
Wipe any spots that appear too dark with a rag dampened with paint thinner. Open and stir your translucent acrylic varnish with a stick until you achieve a smooth, even consistency.
Sand down the sill lightly with 220-grit sandpaper until the surface is smooth and wipe with a clean cotton cloth and denatured alcohol. Apply another coat of varnish and allow it to dry before removing the masking tape.
Test your stain on an inconspicuous area of the window sill first to ensure it will result in the finish you desire. It allows the natural grain of the wood to shine through in the shade of your choice.
To further protect your window sill, you can also apply a translucent varnish over the stain. This task requires time, care and patience but will result in an attractive and durable finish.
A coat of durable wood finish on your hardwood floors, fine furniture, and outdoor decking can mean the difference between a long, lustrous lifespan and one cut short by the passage of time and exposure to the elements. Given the unattractive consequences of poorly protected wood surfaces and the annoyance of frequent refinishing, it’s smart to do your homework first to ensure that you’re doing your best to preserve these valuable features.
Up your woodworking IQ and learn which product is best suited for your next project, so you’ll be able to attain the perfect protection from start to finish (pun intended). Completely clear when dry, water-based polyurethane is ideal for indoor use, on pieces like nightstands, desks, photo frames, and coat racks that already have a stunning natural hue and simply need a revitalizing finish.
Often used to finish hardwood floors, the newer water-based oil-modified polyurethane lends a more robust level of protection than traditional water-based poly. However, any water-based polyurethane is more susceptible to cracking from heat and UV damage, so intricate wood carvings or surfaces that will be exposed to the outdoors may be better protected by an oil-based product.
Finally, more heat-tolerant but also higher in toxicity, oil-based polyurethane goes on with a subtle amber tint that can beautifully enhance the underlying wooden tones of kitchen tables, bar tops, and cutting surfaces. While any polyurethane application requires an open window and good ventilation, because this particular category of finish is higher in Vows, when you’re applying it indoors you should use a respirator and ensure that the surrounding area remain well-ventilated throughout the lengthier drying time.
When applied to wooden surfaces indoors or out, varnish cures into a thin and glossy film with a faint yellow or amber tint, similar to the finish achieved with oil-based polyurethane. If varnish is not applied correctly or dried completely, it can peel, crack, or form bubbles that leave wood more susceptible to environmental damage.
Tape the trim moldings or plaster that meet with the windowsill. Lay the paper bags along the floor under your window, so you don't make a mess.
Go from coarse to medium to fine grit as the old finish or problems with the wood are addressed. Let it cure, and then sand those spots to make the surface as smooth as possible.
Use your screwdriver and bits of sandpaper to sand the tight edges. When you are finished, wipe down the entire windowsill making sure it is very clean.
The old stain should still be present, but it may have light or dark spots from water or wear. When you are finished and your windowsill is dry, remove the tape and discard your waste.
It is usually a good idea to do all the windowsills in a room at the same time, so their finishes are of the same age and treatment. There are some deck oils that can work as a nice finish once the wood is cleaned up.
Sung Oil has a good reputation for those who live in areas of extreme weather changes. Windowsills are the horizontal pieces of wood at the bottom of windows that provide a ledge.
In older homes, the sill may actually be a physical part of the window. In those instances, most builders have built a wooden sill that will butt against the manufactured portion of the window.
Windowsills need to be refinished or repainted fairly often due to damage from constant sunlight and moisture from open windows. Windowsills need regular refinishing because they are consistently exposed to sunlight, can accumulate moisture, and are settling places for dust.
Refinishing timeworn windowsills helps your home maintain a fresh, clean look. Protecting the walls and window trim, as well as the floor, from debris is an important part of a quality refinishing job.
Masking tape can be used around the windowsill to protect the walls and the trim for the window itself. Open the window and reveal the entire face of the windowsill before you begin.
Detail work can be done with a small paintbrush into the nooks and crannies of the windowsill where it meets the window trim. A paint brush is the best tool for applying paint in such a small area, but you can also use the brush to apply stain to the surface and then wipe up the excess with an old rag and work it into the wood evenly across the surface.
For both interior and exterior trim, you’ll probably want to choose a paint with a glossy finish. Window trim can be made from wood, vinyl, aluminum, or steel, and there’s no single coating that works with all.
If you start with just any old can of paint, you could risk seeing the results of all your hard work flake off within the year. Choosing a paint that’s compatible with your type of trim will help achieve results that last.
Wood is the most common material used to trim both interior and exterior windows, and you won’t have any problem finding a good-quality paint. Medium-Density Fiberboard (MDF) is becoming a popular material for interior window trim because it’s easy to install and resists moisture damage.
Its impermeable surface won’t hold standard paint; those suggested above would eventually peel off. Check the weather forecast and choose a day when the temperatures will stay between 50 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Hotter than that, and the paint can dry too quickly, which can affect the quality of the finish. No matter how careful you are, painting on a windy day will lead to unwanted spatter on your home’s siding.
You can try scraping it out with the edge of the 6-in-1 paint scraper or a metal putty knife, but you’ll have better luck with the Caulk Aid from Hyde Tools. On interior wood and MDF, as well as vinyl trim, use a household degreasing cleaner.
For caulking to efficiently seal the seams and gaps in window trim, it needs to be applied and smoothed into the crack. To achieve a professional-looking finish, run a bead of caulk in the seam (1/8 inch is usually sufficient) and then use the flexible padded tip on the Caulk Aid (on the end opposite its scraper) to smooth out the bead.
If caulk builds up under the padded tip, just wipe it clean on a rag and continue to the end of the seam. For unfinished trim, you’ll need to apply a coat of primer before the paint, using the following method for each application.
Plus, this line is suitable for use with all types of paint, and the brushes’ soft-grip handles make them easy to hold. Any overprint or splatters seen on the windowpanes will detract from the appearance of the fresh coat, so you’ll want to clean those up.
Cut along the outer edge of the Mini Guide with the 9 mm Snap-Off Blade Utility Knife. After you’ve made this target line, use a glass razor scraper like Hyde Tools’ Glass Scraper with 5 Blades Stored in Handle to remove the paint from the windowpane.
Position the blade parallel to the edge of the trim and, using a straight motion, scrape the stuck-on paint right off the glass. The scraper features an ergonomic design to reduce hand fatigue when scraping and, as the name suggests, a ready supply of replacement blades in the handle in case you need to change one out on the job.