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Can A Zone Valve Get Stuck Open

author
Ava Flores
• Thursday, 05 November, 2020
• 14 min read

I just bought a house that seems to have an issue with one of the zone valves being stuck open. The even with the thermostat off and/or removed from the wall, the heat keeps coming.

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Contents

I had someone out to look at it, he disconnected the wires from the controller, and we still had the problem. Runs, we get heat in that zone ...sometimes making the room 80+ degrees.

The guy said, he thought the hot water was “leaking through” the valve ...it's on the return, which he thought was odd, it should be on the supply. Part of my question is...now that we're coming out of home heating season, can I just turn off the supply and return valves manually without harming the system.... I know it's pressurized and don't want to further mess it up.

The boiler is going to keep running to produce hot water...but we don't really want heat in May, June, Etc. I want to give a pizzazz answer here... but will refrain.

Zone valves can be on either the supply OR the return, they will work fine at either location. I am unsure on what to replace, the pump or the valve. Sorry for the rookie question...this is my first experience with boiler heat.

Hi Jimmy, we've all gotta start somewhere, no need to apologize! Tell us a little more... it sounds as if you know that your system has electric zone valves, is that correct? Here's the link to the PB album:I have a pump for each zone.

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What's with all the garden hoses hanging off the drains? All those greenish/whitish crusty deposits are caused by leaks. With individual pumps such as you have, each zone also needs to have a 'flow check' valve.

Gravity flow can occur because hot water is more buoyant than cold water and will 'float' up out of the boiler and actually induce a flow in the zone. I have no idea what the green hose is for, it was there when we bought the house.

The other hose is where I tried to bleed the air out of the system... I just left it connected and draped it up and out of the way. I know the leaks need to be fixed, but what I really want to do is redo the entire system in an organized manner.

Thanks for the tip on the float type air vent, I tightened the top of it. Well, after much deliberation on what to do with my heating system, I have made the decision to tear into this and route the pipes in a manner that is more organized with labels and such.

Seriously, what you really need to have, first and foremost, is a solid understanding of the basics of hydroponic heating before you can tackle a job like that. One of the “tools” you might consider obtaining at the outset is a good book on hydroponic heating fundamentals.

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This article series answers most questions about Heating System Boiler Controls on central heating systems to aid in troubleshooting, inspection, diagnosis, and repairs. The photo above shows a bank of six zone valves controlling heat distribution in a large home.

We also provide a MASTER INDEX to this topic, or you can try the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX as a quick way to find information you need. Our photo at left shows a Honeywell ™ zone valve installation.

Wiring details for the yellow Flair Zone patrol valve shown above are given In all cases, when the zone valve is fully open, an “end switch” inside the valve tells the heating system's circulatory to begin operating, causing hot water to flow through the zone.

Typically, heating systems using zone valves will have two or more zone valves (usually but not always located close to the heating boiler) and a single circulatory pump (usually located on the return end of the hot water piping close to the heating boiler). Provided the wiring and thermostat are correct and operating, if no hot water flows past the valve on a call for heat (feel the pipes for heat) it may be jammed and need replacement Our photo (left) shows the manual control valve in its “automatic” or normal position on a Honeywell™ heating zone control valve.

Reader Comment: details of excessive VA load on a transformer Andre said: Just curious about the query whose 7 zone valves keep failing once a year. If it's a standard 40VA like you find on a lot of equipment from the factory, 7 of those valves will try to draw 60VA if they all open at once.

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Reply: We often read about people hooking up too many zone valves to a single transformer, overloading it. A clogged relief valve means that the heating equipment is unsafe to operate, risking a BREVE.

Good practice locates the zone controls and circulatory on the return side of the hydroponic heating loop. There's theory that the slightly lower temperatures give longer component life and that this location will reduce water hammer noise in the heating zones.

If you continue to have annoying water hammer banging when the circulatory pump starts (or stops) consider changing out your zone valves to a slow closing valve such as the Taco #570. Reply: problems caused by zone valves installed backwards include banging pipes and reduced valve life A slow-closing type zone valve may cause banging heating pipes if installed backwards.

I figure that the manufacturer wouldn't have put parts (springs) in the valve if they were not needed. (Our Honeywell zone valve photo above shows this mechanical lever.

Faulty zone valve wiring connections or thermostatic control. Watch out : different brands of zone valves may require different wiring hook-ups and a mix of zone valve brands can lead to some head-scratching in figuring out proper wiring.

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I can 't give a general solution to this problem as we need to look at the wiring diagram. No electrical power to the zone valve unit or to the thermostat that controls it Air-bound hydroponic heating system : if the zone valve appears to operate properly but heat never arrives in the zone it controls, check that the system circulatory pump is working (pump motor hums & moves, pipes get hot on both sides of the circulatory inlet and outlet).

While going through the detailed sequence in the operation of the heating boiler, watch for and inspect the condition of the heating boiler controls and safety devices (as required by ASH 9.1. A.3 automatic safety controls). Watch out: for boiler water chemical conditions that could contribute to zone valve failure.

We have a hot water boiler with 7 normally open Honeywell zone valves. I'm not aware of temperature-tolerance differences among the two valve descriptions you cite, and am confused by the query: in my limited experience a heating zone valve is opened or closed by the room thermostat.

In the normally closed valve the valve remains closed by spring pressure and opens when the thermostat apples power to it, allowing fluid flow. Reply: Thanks Dennis, indeed you are perfectly correct: the HONEYWELL V8043D zone valve is a “normally open valve while the Honeywell V8043C, F, or G models are “normally closed”.

The V8043 Motorized Univalve provides two-position (open -close) control of supply water for baseboard radiation, convectors, fan-coil units, etc. Quick Fit actuator provides easy snap on and off connection to the valve assembly.

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. The application that we have is residential, but was originally installed when the house was built 29 years ago. It's a good system, but we are trying to improve costs and new procedures develop with time.

Reply: dissolved oxygen in heating boiler water can cause zone valve failure Dennis: thanks for the follow-up. Easy servicing because the entire power head assembly can be replaced without removing valve body from line.

Optional accessory fittings can be provided to facilitate convenient removal of the entire zone valve unit. It's not clear to me that the added heat from the 40VA transformer wiring that powers this zone valve would normally be sufficient to contribute to the product's failure in the field.

The temperatures of the circulating hot water are, in my OPINION more likely to be a factor in zone valve life. The dissolved oxygen, which is found in systems that have a frequent source of make-up water, causes the rubber plug inside the valve to deteriorate and eventually fail.

Watch out: however, for wiring errors, short circuits, or a misbehaving low voltage transformer. Those defects could contribute to zone valve failure, as might corrosive or mineral-laden water in more rare cases.

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I have a Burnham v8h boiler system I removed the analog thermostats and replaced them with programmable Honeywell stats now the zone valves turn on at the correct temperature but do not turn off. The motor sits atop and operates a mechanical shaft that, by rotating, opens and closes the zone valve in response to a call for heat from the thermostat.

The zone valve (Honeywell) which feeds the upstairs kitchen/dining/living/bath (large area) is making noise, overheating, and not opening when the thermostat calls for it to. I'm had 30 years of maintenance experience changing pumps, motors, valves, piping systems, etc., though it is mostly heavy industrial.

Thank you for a helpful question on the reliability or quality of Taco vs Honeywell zone valves and actuators. I've seen more Honeywell than Taco zone valves installed, but I have no actual zone valve failure rate data that demonstrates one BRAND is “better” than the other.

Reading comments by various HVAC service techs we see an OPINION that “which is better” Honeywell or Taco turns in part on which zone valve model you're installing. “Complaints” are anecdotal reports, not peer-reviewed expert research on failure rates.

It's likely that both Taco and Honeywell have failure data for their products based on their own research, on field reports, or both. Bottom line: Both Honeywell and Taco make reliable zone valves.

I turned my thermostat right off and the valve cooled slightly to warm to touch but still makes humming sound -thermostat is presently off, and it is possible the building heat has just been turned on for fall - Zone valves are pretty generic and interchangeable, with the caveat that you have to look carefully at the wiring connections to get that right.

Below is a photo showing typical Shark bite connectors, in this case where I was hooking up a Bosch tankless water heater to a control valve and a service drain. This weekend temperatures dropped to the lower 30 again and the Zone 2 quit working.

The worst of all possible outcomes, as there is no way to run a new wire without opening walls on 1 and 2 floors. Unless there is some kind of device that I can hook up to Ocoee and downstairs that will communicate to each other(maybe something could be built using 2 raspberry pi).

Changing the zone valve head is a good diagnostic step to rule out. Sometimes you can detect a problem by checking for continuity between the wires after disconnecting them from the thermostat at one end and the zone valve at the other.

You can also try temporarily switching the zone valve directly by substituting a jumper for the thermostat I also checked the 28V transformer although I knew it cannot be the issues as it supplies power to both zones.

My guess is that Rh or W1 wires are damaged somewhere inside walls and when it gets colder at night they lose the contact. The cause of power drop could be deliberate: a timer or economizer, or a poor connection or control board (perhaps affected by temperature variations).

Forcing the zonevalveopen and then getting heat tells me that the circulatory was running but the zone valve not opening. That condition means that hot water can 't circulate from the boiler through the zone and that in turn would mean the boiler is seeing the call for heat, turning on, heating up but then reaching its HI LIMIT and shutting off.

Zone 2 heat works perfectly fine during the day, I checked the Rh and W1 wires with voltmeter, get 28V reading. Something that I cannot explain happens at 10PM, The Rh and W1 wires reading is 0, when I call for heat the zone valve does not respond.

When during a night I use the manual ON lever on the valve the boiler kicks in and works just fine. In that circumstance you'll reduce your heating cost and increase comfort by having working zone control.

Why do or what causes Honeywell zone valve to separate were the o ring sits there are four screws holding it in place and one bolt lets go pushing the o ring out are these bolt acting like a shear pin Note: appearance of your Comment below may be delayed: if your comment contains an image, web link, or text that looks to the software as if it might be a web link, your posting will appear after it has been approved by a moderator.

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Sources
1 archiveofourown.org - https://archiveofourown.org/works/3519197/chapters/7748930