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Can Autozone Test My Starter

author
Ellen Grant
• Tuesday, 22 December, 2020
• 11 min read

Knowing the signs of a bad starter can help you diagnose the problem and get back on the road as quickly as possible. To keep the explanation simple, a starter is essentially a small electrical motor.

oem skyline nissan gt autozone starter
(Source: gtrusablog.com)

Contents

Other pieces or parts of the starting system include the battery, battery cables, a starter relay, connecting wiring, ignition switch, Transmission Gear Position switch, Clutch Interlock switch (manual transmissions) and in some cases the engine computer. The dashboard warning lights come on when you try to turn on your car, but the engine does not crank or spin over.

If you experience the dreaded “clicking” noise when you try to turn the key, this is a good sign of starter failure. Keep in mind though that even if you do not get the clicking noise and nothing happens when you try to start the car, the issue may still be with the starter.

Since there are so many electrical components connected to the starter system, if you try to turn on the car and the only result of this is a ton of smoke, you definitely need to put the key down and call a mechanic. If this is the case, you likely need to go ahead and call a tow truck to get your car to a mechanic, unless you’re comfortable replacing your own starter.

The reality is that you may not actually be able to start the car at all, depending on the nature of the problem. However, if you suspect that you have a bad starter, the first thing to do is try to jump start the car.

In order to jump start the car, you need to ensure that both batteries are in good condition (so no leaks and no corrosion) and ensure that anything electronic in both cars is completely turned off. You also need to have a set of jumper cables and some gloves to protect your hands while you are connecting the batteries together.

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(Source: forums.superchevy.com)

When you have ensured that everything is connected correctly, go ahead and start the working car. It is possible that a dead or weak battery is causing your car not to start, rather than a problem with the starter system.

Advice, how-to guides, and car care information featured on Autosome .com and Autosome Advice & How-To’s are presented as helpful resources for general maintenance and automotive repairs from a general perspective only and should be used at your own risk. Information is accurate and true to the best of AutoZone’s knowledge, however, there may be omissions, errors or mistakes.

Refer to the service manual for specific diagnostic, repair and tool information for your particular vehicle. Always disconnect the negative battery cable before servicing an electrical application on the vehicle to protect its electrical circuits in the event that a wire is accidentally pierced or grounded.

Sulfuric acid is caustic and can burn clothing and skin or cause blindness. Always wear gloves and safety glasses and other personal protection equipment, and work in a well-ventilated area.

Should electrolyte get on your body or clothing, neutralize it immediately with a solution of baking soda and water. Please note that the tool that you receive after placing an online order may be in a used but operable condition due to the nature of the Loan-A-Tool® program.

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(Source: g35driver.com)

Warranty Protection for your purchases on batteries, hard parts, and more. More technicians trust Muralist ® parts, so you can install with confidence.

Because I took my starter in yesturday, and they said it was good plus I had my battery check, and they said it was a good and bad meaning it was holding a charge it was at 440 out of 600 cranking amps when I pick it up, but they said it wasn't going to last long maybe another month. When I hook the barrel back up to my car on the dash where it tells you how much power you have in the battery it barely went half way.

Bring your vehicle with the check engine light on to your local Autosome. Review your free report Our free Fix Finder service takes information from your vehicle's computer and your mileage and grabs recommendations from 5.5 million ASE certified technicians.

Every single one of our more than 5,700 locations in the United States offer our free Fix Finder service during business hours. Whether you choose to diagnose your parts yourself or bring it to us, Autosome is here to help you find out what’s wrong, so you can do the job right the first time.

Pop the hood and familiarize yourself with your starting and charging system. Chemical reactions inside the battery cause electrons to build up in the anode.

hook alternator bb ram truck power starter does
(Source: ramchargercentral.com)

If you have a problem, it’s easy to tighten the cables or to remove corrosion with a wire brush. Your vehicle’s relays and fuses regulate current in the electrical systems.

The starter solenoid is generally one of the largest relays in your car because it handles such a huge amperage amount. These are often seen mounted either directly on the battery cable, or nearby in the engine’s fuse/relay compartment.

This prevents the excess current from damaging the radio or melting wires in the system. After reaching the relays and fuses, current continues to the vehicle’s various electrical systems.

This sound is your starter solenoid not fully engaging because of low or insufficient voltage. N these cases, a visual inspection and/or removal and bench testing is needed, which Autosome provides.

The 3 items responsible for this inside the alternator are the rotor, stator, and rectifier. The alternator works similarly, except it is turned by the belt rather than a hand or the wind.

(Source: www.cherokeeforum.com)

The rotor features magnetized finger poles that rotate surrounding the wire field winding. Ensure the drive belt is in good condition and does not slip on the alternator pulley.

A dead battery, one that won’t stay charged, or headlamps and interior lights that appear dim can indicate that your alternator is possibly bad. If the alternator is replaced, be sure the battery is fully charged before starting the engine.

If the drive belt shows signs of wear, replace it to ensure the alternator will perform properly. Remember that AutoZonecan help with any of your Battery, Alternator, or charging system needs through replacement parts or testing.

Advice, how-to guides, and car care information featured on Autosome .com and Autosome Advice & How-To’s are presented as helpful resources for general maintenance and automotive repairs from a general perspective only and should be used at your own risk. Information is accurate and true to the best of AutoZone’s knowledge, however, there may be omissions, errors or mistakes.

Refer to the service manual for specific diagnostic, repair and tool information for your particular vehicle. Always disconnect the negative battery cable before servicing an electrical application on the vehicle to protect its electrical circuits in the event that a wire is accidentally pierced or grounded.

relay nissan starter inhibit 1993 interlock nissans enjoy
(Source: nissannut.com)

Sulfuric acid is caustic and can burn clothing and skin or cause blindness. Always wear gloves and safety glasses and other personal protection equipment, and work in a well-ventilated area.

Should electrolyte get on your body or clothing, neutralize it immediately with a solution of baking soda and water. Please note that the tool that you receive after placing an online order may be in a used but operable condition due to the nature of the Loan-A-Tool® program.

Last week out of curiosity I went over to Autozone to get my battery/alternator tested because I noticed a very slight hesitation when cranking over the OK. I was then informed that I needed to drive straight home and park the OK until I could get a new alternator.

He even stated not to use any accessories on the drive home as it would drain the battery even more. The following day while at work I had my wife run to the dealer and get me a new alternator ($290) so I could install it as soon as I got home.

I had drill this past weekend and needed to make sure my OK was running properly. When I got home I installed the alternator (froze my butt off doing since it was only 10 degrees out) and returned to Autozone to have them run another test.

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(Source: automotorpad.com)

Basically I wanted to make sure that I didn't ruin the battery since I had been driving around with a bad alternator. I asked if there was any chance his machine was broken, and he said that he had tested vehicles all day without any problems.

I drove across the street to Advanced Auto and had them run a test and everything came back fine. A long story short, it turns out there was nothing wrong with my original alternator.

Our vehicle's use the PCM to control output of the alternator and unless under load, it won't give out a proper reading when tested by a store like Autozone. Unfortunately, the dealer has a no return policy on electrical items, and it had already been installed on the vehicle anyways.

I am hoping to get some sort of credit or something since I was told I needed that part when I really didn't. The slight hesitation when cranking over the OK in the morning was most likely due to the temperature outside.

For anyone else who needs to get their battery tested, make sure the employee types in the correct CCA. On my previous car, the guy just typed in a random CCA and the battery came back fine.

charge holding battery help ford isn
(Source: www.ford-trucks.com)

The next day I came right back to the store and another employee tested the battery and typed in the correct CCA. DO keep us updated, I would love to hear back that they refunded the money since it was their mistake.

Sorry to hear about the problem, but I wouldn't trust the guys at the “parts” stores to tie their own shoes correctly. There are a couple of guys at the local Napa that I trust, but they have proved to me, they know some stuff.

The people that work at my local Autozone and Advance Autoparts are not 100% with it. I only deal with my local Advanced Auto as the Autozone down the road is worthless.

My local Dodge dealer is shady, so I try to stay clear unless absolutely necessary. I normally wouldn't go to an auto parts store for something like that, but I figured that they couldn't screw something like that up.

I only buy bulbs, cleaners/wax and my K&N Filter from Autosome or O' Reilly's or Advanced. A friend of mine bought a 1976 Mustang 2 with a near perfect body and a supposedly blown motor.

The guy said he had pulled the starter out to get it checked at autozone, they “tested” it, and they said it was fine. The guy sold the car to my friend for $400 because it was only worth the body.

My friend, having a dozen starters on his shelf at home decided to pull it out and check it himself. Turns out the starter was completely frozen and stuck in the engaged position.

The good thing is that my friend got a nice car for a great price. I think I would say you gave a friend a drink (some money) to fit it, and you want reimbursing for it.

That way you get something for freezing your nuts off while fitting it and your wife running around over their mistake. The battery was in a fairly good state of charge and the regulated output proved this.

I think these alternators are in the 120/140 amp output range but would never operate at that unless it was trying to compensate for a dead short.....the battery would not be able to tolerate a charge rate that high, nor could the output wire for any length of time. This covers all the electronics during operation and maintains a bit of charge beyond what is called for.

The fact there was output to cover and recover the batteries needs should have been interpreted as no problem. The charging lamp only comes on when current loss exceeds current needs, just like a voltmeter would have been operating on the discharge side of the meter. The only part of the discussion after diagnosis that was correct was the fact the vehicle will only run for about 30 minutes on battery only before the electric fuel pump (the highest steady draw component during operation) would exhaust it had the alternator really been bad.

As 07 stated, in retrospect a few more opinions would have been desirable and hopefully he would have found somebody that is capable of interpreting test results. It turns out that the PCM regulates the output of the alternator and unless under load it's not going to give out a normal reading when tested.

He then gave me the number to the regional office and I spoke with a guy by the name of Bill who took care of me. Not even 15 minutes later I was back at Autozone and received store credit for the entire cost of the alternator.

He then gave me the number to the regional office and I spoke with a guy by the name of Bill who took care of me. Not even 15 minutes later I was back at Autozone and received store credit for the entire cost of the alternator.

Rather impressive result...... I'll bet the problem is still employed at that store, which, is OK as long as a retraining occurs.

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Sources
1 en.wikipedia.org - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WHAC_A_MOLE
2 www.sfgate.com - https://www.sfgate.com/business/article/Chinese-companies-nearly-immune-to-U-S-lawsuits-3295604.php
3 www.msn.com - http://www.msn.com/en-ca/news/canada/regulators-play-whac-a-mole-as-vancouvers-illegal-pot-shops-flourish/ar-BB1cBHo9
4 www.msn.com - https://www.msn.com/en-us/news/us/bull-riding-whac-a-mole-prisoner-release-news-from-around-our-50-states/ar-BB16FqNs