The main role of the swirl flaps is to control and regulate the fuel to air ratio and to improve torque and emissions. They also help for more power, better torque at lower speed and reducing certain toxic emissions.
As engine speed increases, for example after 2000 rpm, the swirl flaps become at a fully opened position. They are known to fail, degrade and disintegrate as well as they cause serious problems and damages on your vehicle’s engine.
Some early model vehicles, especially BMW’s were fitted with swirl flaps that became brittle and could easily fracture over time. In addition, the small metal screws holding each swirl flap to the spindle were not stable enough.
Their location is a prerequisite for any broken part of the flap or the screw to enter the combustion chamber. This makes the swirl flap bigger and reduces the internal size of the inlet manifold.
In a case of detecting an electronic failure with the intake flap operation, the engine control unit (ECU) may report an error code and display an engine fault light on the dashboard. In addition, such type of fault often places the vehicle in a “limp home” mode.
Many people are interested in swirl flaps removal via the ECU because all the problems that we have mentioned above cause extremely costly repairs. Not only that but the swirl flap systems are expensive to replace and some manufacturers supply only the whole intake manifold.
We, from Effective Tuning, offer the best custom swirl flaps removal /delete service. After that, we modify the intake manifold system and reprogram the ECU to work without it.
Inlet Manifold Swirl Flap Removal / Delete Swirl flaps are small butterfly valves located within the inlet manifold on modern diesel and petrol engines, they are designed to help regulate the fuel to air ratio, improve emissions and help generate better torque at low engine speeds. After 2000 rpm the flaps are generally activated to a fully open position and have very little effect on engine performance and emissions.
Loss in boost pressure will cause a vehicle to run rich and can damage other components such as PDF, EAR, etc. In our opinion very little, the reduction in emissions and performance at low engine speeds is almost unnoticeable and would only be relevant if no carbon build up had occurred, due to the fact that carbon build up begins as soon as the vehicle leaves the factory, the removal of the flaps is likely to result in increased performance and efficiency.
The cost of removal depends on the design of the manifold and flaps, contact us with your vehicle registration, and we will be more than happy to offer a quotation. So I'm guessing the pump would only come as a complete unit with the internal gasket fitted.
What's the best seal product for sealing a bolt if the bolthole runs into the oil channel? I used Granville clear Instant Gasket for the water pump. I thought it was the HP fuel pump you took apart for no good reason.
I'd expect any oil leaking from there to be coming from the gasket between the pump and cam box. There's no oil fed to it or pumped by it, just the mist from the cam box itself lubricates the innards enough.
It won't cause any harm to clean it all up then use a thin film of Granville goop on that gasket and remake the joint. However, I wouldn't use it/silicone within the vacuum pump itself without extreme care about where debris might end up.
The whole job could probably have been done without even removing it, but as I did not remove the battery or battery tray, I would not of had access to the thermostat, and the maze of pipes down that side. I dismantled it due to the fear water was inside, so it was a precaution to dismantle it. Oil looked to be building up and dripping from the lowest bolt attaching it to the cam cover.
I had difficulty positioning the toothed type inner to the exhaust cam, and it was very tight when installing. I remember when reassembling the pump the O-ring did not seem to be very raised in its recess but all I did was clean it so did not think too hard about it.
The larger pump to cam cover gasket I did replace with what I had from Ned. I'd quiet enjoy doing the whole helical thing, tricky access again, battery would definitely need out.
Hah, it took me a few attempts to get the vacuum pump drive aligned with the cam, too. Sounds to me like the oil is being forced past the gasket between the pump and cam box by normal crankcase pressure. As long as it doesn't interfere with anything within the cam box, e.g. the gearing between inlet and exhaust cams, that'll be fine and avoid needing to Helical.
The negative terminal is a brilliant cam clip, no tools required, just pull the lever. Aside from that small screw you don't need to touch any of the nuts, fuses and stuff in the covered distribution nubbins on top of the post.
I have no idea how you managed to do the thermostat and vacuum pump with the battery in. Hah, it took me a few attempts to get the vacuum pump drive aligned with the cam, too. Sounds to me like the oil is being forced past the gasket between the pump and cam box by normal crankcase pressure.
As long as it doesn't interfere with anything within the cam box, e.g. the gearing between inlet and exhaust cams, that'll be fine and avoid needing to Helical. The negative terminal is a brilliant cam clip, no tools required, just pull the lever.
Aside from that small screw you don't need to touch any of the nuts, fuses and stuff in the covered distribution nubbins on top of the post. I have no idea how you managed to do the thermostat and vacuum pump with the battery in.
With a few inspections and wipes clean I think the oil is coming from the large internal O-ring. The bolts that seal the vacuum pump with the O-ring together are hex type I believe.
Not having ever looked inside I don't know how this particular vacuum pump works or is put together.
If you managed to clean it, it's gas tight in the manifold, and works, I wouldn't worry about it. The drip is from the lowest bolt which is a mounting to the cam cover.
But the pump sealing bolt with the hex nearest will need replaced. I hope it works OK. All I've done is clean the car (first time ever, since I bought it) and enjoy what happens in third gear when I stick my foot down, specially on bends (also the first time ever).
Nice to see an Alpha of the same age that doesn't have the same interior layout as every other model. I like the engine cover on your motor too and the rubber strip running right across the front, at a quick glance looks like a strut brace. I've a sharp humpback bridge around the corner from me that loves third gear.
I've just put it in, codes and number on it different but gave it a shot. I still want to go back to someone giving me knowledge of the third party MAP sensors.
The difference between say Bosch and pie burg is usually price and also the calibration tables in the ecu might not match the other part exactly, must be close enough to list as suitable part. Maybe Autobus or other specialist can supply the right used part from a dismantled car.
I stopped and started ignition a dozen times when I installed it. Usually EML resets after 4 or 5 starts normally if the issue isn't persistent.
I will plug up Multiecuscan when I get a chance and see what's logged, but at the moment all seems ok. I've done a few hundred miles in the deflated EGR-blanked 147 and not had any issues except the CSF light due to the blanked EAR.
Yesterday Autobus did the EAR delete remap and I could tell the difference as I pulled away. It has spotless up throttle response and added smoothness and torque below ~2k, and the car is now a more relaxing drive in traffic.
It's probably no good for the DMF, but it will happily trickle along in 1st or 2nd with no clutch use at 845rpm idle, smooth as butter, and pick up on the throttle with no lag or stumble. There seem to be varied opinions on the wisdom of getting rid of flaps and EAR mapped out.
I never drove this car when it had functioning swirl flaps and EAR without bent valves/damaged head and a sticky turbo (it was then not happy in traffic), so I can 't say whether it's better or worse than OE. It would be good to lose that piece of junk, but I have no idea whether or how it is possible.
From memory there is what looked like a potentiometer in the actuator, so probably a variable resistance tells the ECU how open the flaps are.