Step 3 : Press and hold down the reset button for about 10 seconds. Let go of it if the ice maker begins turning again or if you hear a chime inside the unit.
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. To reset the defrost timer in this unit, go to the back panel of the refrigerator and unscrew it.
Find the round notch on the defrost timer, turn it anti-clockwise with a screwdriver with a Flathead. Press both the switches and the refrigerator temperature button up to three times in ten seconds.
Release the switches and button, and you will see the letter ‘s’ displayed on the panel of the freezer section. Then, if the display of the fridge goes blank while the freezer shows ‘1’, the control board has been reset.
To reset the control panel on a Whirlpool Gold refrigerator, take the following steps: After the removal, you should see a bright RED reset button on the bottom of the ice maker.
Note : Always get the help of a professional technician if you find the fault too difficult to handle alone. This will reset the device and, in some cases, might be enough to fix any problem completely.
When the device has been reset, the water filter icon automatically returns to the initial blue color, and you will stop seeing the “Replace Filter” prompt on the display screen. To reset your unit after a power outage, press and hold the “Lock” and “Filter” button simultaneously for three seconds.
Press the switches and the temperature button simultaneously up to three times in 10 seconds. To find out if the reset was successful, check to see if there is a letter “S” display on the freezer section when you release the switches.
There should also be a letter “E” on the fridge’s display to indicate that the reset has been performed. Today's modern refrigerators do more than keep perishable food at a safe temperature, they also keep water from the house source flowing freely and frozen cubes dropping effortlessly from the ice maker.
Whirlpool places its water filters either tucked into the grille at the base of the appliance or in the upper right corner of the interior of the fridge. Insert the new water filter gently into the housing and rotate it until the notches are properly aligned with the grooves.
Reset the status by pressing and holding the water filter button for at least 3 seconds until it turns blue. Whirlpool refrigerator control panel reset is recommended if the refrigerator is beeping and not functioning properly.
The main job of the beeping and flashing lights on a Whirlpool refrigerator is to alert the user that the appliance needs assistance. It controls each part of the refrigerator's mechanical movements and alerts the user to issues before the problem can cause a shutdown or major breakdown.
Going through a list of Whirlpool refrigerator control board troubleshooting tips can help you solve common issues with the appliance. If the refrigerator display goes blank after all that effort, then the Whirlpool appliance is back in good working order.
Setting it to 5 will make your fridge the coldest. Dirty condenser coils are the most common cause for a Whirlpool refrigerator not cooling. Condenser coils dissipate heat as the refrigerant passes through them.
If the coils are clogged in dirt and debris, they can 't release the heat properly. Release the Door Alarm Keypad and wait 3 seconds.
The evaporator fan motor circulates the cold air from the coils through the compartment. The most common cause for this condition is a problem with the defrost system.
Within 15 seconds of restoring power, press the feeler arm three times in succession. Fix: To repair a frozen line, slide the refrigerator and unplug it.
The Jazz control board is what Whirlpool (makers of Amanda and Maytag appliances) calls the Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC) board used in some models of french door and bottom-mount Maytag and Amanda refrigerators. Kitchen or WhirlpoolRefrigerator = PO error code = Power Outage.
Open the fresh food door and hold the fresh food door light switch closed while pushing the freezer temperature down key pad 3 times consecutively. Release the Fresh Food door light switch.
The control will display PE to confirm entry into the programming mode. So when Whirlpool refrigerator freezer error codes start popping up on the refrigerator display, it can be unnerving.
Whirlpool refrigerator diagnostic codes are designed to alert you to a problem that needs to be addressed. Some Whirlpool refrigerator fault codes have an easy fix, such as changing the water filter.
Whirlpool refrigerator freezer error codes that show C on the display indicate a refrigerator Hermiston failure. Problem: This code means that the refrigerator temperature sensor has failed.
Problem: Needless to say, electrical systems need to “talk” to each other in order to function properly. If either shows signs of damage they need to be replaced, but if they are simply loose go ahead and secure them.
In the event that doesn’t solve the problem, the main control board also needs to be replaced. Whirlpool refrigerator freezer error codes include one that monitors the internal temperature.
A code 18 reading on the fridge display means that the internal temperature has risen above the set point. If you are unaware that there is no power and are opening the doors, cold air escapes speeding up the spike in temperature.
Keep reading to get the facts about several potential causes for Whirlpool fridges shutting off. If your refrigerator shuts off and the only way toucan get it back up and running is to unplug the fridge and reconnect it, then the issue is with the ADC board.
To test this issue, the next time your fridge shuts off, unplug it, wait ten seconds, and then plug it in again. Unplugging it resets it and allows it to run for a time, but this is just a temporary fix.
There are many other potential reasons that a Whirlpool refrigerator will run fine and then shut off. It may not prompt the refrigerator to start back up again after it has gone through a defrost cycle.
It is common that we can quickly diagnose the problem and come up with the most cost-effective fix. UPDATE: Whirlpool has finally publicly admitted (kind of) that they’ve left their customers “high and dry” with this control board issue.
” I have no idea about the price of this new “service kit,” but I’m confident that the process I explain below is just as effective as it’s always been in solving the control board issue. I recommend you try my extremely cheap and affective (read the comments to see how many people it’s worked for) approach first, before you spend big money on a new Whirlpool part.
In 2007, I purchased a brand new, stainless steel, side-by-side Kitchen refrigerator for our Utah house. It worked great for almost 7 years, until two months ago… when I noticed a small puddle of water coming from under the fridge.
Upon further investigation, I also noticed that the unit wasn’t able to keep the freezer below 0° F or the fridge below 38° F, and that the metal divider between the fridge and freezer (which is called a mullion strip) was warm enough to make the rubber door seal give off a faint melting/burning odor. One of the most common causes of a fridge not being able to keep temperature (as well as a warm mullion strip) is dirty condenser coils.
If not cleaned regularly, they can get clogged with dust and prevent airflow from cooling the coils as the condenser fan tries to draw air through them. I removed the vented plastic cover on the bottom of the fridge, where air is supposed to come in, and inspected the coils.
I put my hand down next to the vent at the bottom corner of the fridge, expecting to feel warm air coming out as the condenser fan drew room air from the front of the fridge, across the newly cleaned condenser coils, and out the vent: To my dismay, I felt nothing… which meant my problem was worse than simply dirty condenser coils.
I could hear the compressor running, but I could see that the condenser fan wasn’t spinning. That’s explains why the mullion strip (which houses some of those heat-exchanging tubes inside the fridge) was warm, and why the unit wasn’t able to keep things cool.
As the fridge cooled off, I turned my attention to what I knew would be the easy fix: the melted ice maker tube. After a trip to a nearby hardware store, I returned home with a 1/4 quick-connect plastic coupler, which is a far easier (and reliable) way to repair refrigerator water lines than trying to use copper fittings.
If your compressor is running, but your condenser fan isn’t, then one (or possibly both) of the following two things is broken: In most cases, your fridge’s condenser fan is designed to go bad long before its control board does.
Swapping out the fan is relatively fast and inexpensive, assuming toucan get your hands on one (and they’re not hard to find). I also noted the fan’s part number (UDQR007W7), and was happy to find that I could buy a new one on Amazon for less than $60.
Using my volt meter, I checked the voltage on the wiring plug that I’d removed from the fan. To find the part number for the control board, I went to my fridge’s secret compartment.
I called Kitchen’s customer service line and asked for their parts department. Further online research revealed an apocryphal story about the Japanese manufacturer of these boards being destroyed in the tsunami of 2011.
Because I knew the problem presented as intermittent power to the fan, I speculated that cause was most likely one of the following three things: I flipped the control board over, and re-soldered the pins on connector P5, thereby (hopefully) eliminating possibility #1.
To eliminate possibility #2, I inspected the capacitor nearest the P5 connector (looks like a silver cylinder wrapped in black plastic in the photo). It was a 220 ugh 35V (pronounced “two-twenty microfarad thirty-five volt”) unit, and if you carefully compare its top to the other two capacitors in the above photo, you’ll notice that the light reflects off it differently… meaning it could be slightly bulging at the top, which is a sure sign of failure (or impending failure).
I flipped the board over, and traced the circuit with my finger from the connecting pins and determined that the potentially faulty relay was the second one from the top in this photo: I don’t leave a lot of food in the fridge when I’m not in Utah, but I didn’t want the food inside the freezer the thaw, so I decided I’d throw a temporary fix at the fridge while I was back in Seattle for a few weeks, and then deal with the control board issues again when I returned the following month.
On my next trip down to Utah the following month, the fridge continued to work fine with the compressor fan running 24/7, and I was tempted to leave it as it was… but the question of that final relay was still nagging me. I phoned the company that Kitchen’s customer service had suggested: Concentric Solutions.
They quoted me $121 (including shipping) to “recondition” the board and send it back to me with a one-year warranty. As toucan imagine, I was extremely curious to examine the board and compare it to the “before” photos I’d taken.
It’s easy to see a human-made solder joint vs. a machine made one, so I was able to quickly verify that Concentric had replaced nothing else on the board. I’d spent $121 to confirm exactly what I’d thought… the fix for the board was a capacitor and a relay totaling somewhere between $6 and $10 in parts.
To make my $121 “tuition payment” worthwhile, I hope that anyone else experiencing this problem finds this blog post, tracks down a replacement capacitor and relay, then replaces them on their own control board themselves (or toucan ask a geeky friend with basic soldering skills to do it for you). I’m very disappointed in Whirlpool Corp’s lack of customer service with this issue, particularly since this one control board affects so many of their products.
If you’re new to soldering, you may want to consider using a soldering tool when removing the capacitor and relay before installing the new ones. Toucan pick one at your local Radio Shack, or I’ve included one in my Amazon List mania list for this fix.
This is another copy of a close-up of the rear of the board, with the five solder points for the relay that should be replaced outlined in red: I’ve received lots of comments from readers who have successfully completed this fix on their fridges (yay!).
But a recurring theme I’ve sees by reading those comments is a fridge owner who replaces only the capacitor (since it’s the easiest component to find), then re-installs the control board. Eventually, however, the fridge stops working again and replacing the relay mentioned in my article does the trick for good.
They weaken capacitors, fry relays, and installing a surge protector is cheap insurance against having to pull it apart, get parts, and maybe spoil a fridge and freezer full of food in the process. To prevent it from happening again, I bought an RCA PSAPP1R Appliance Surge Protector, which cost me less than $25 (with free shipping from Amazon).
The RCA surge protector allows you to plug in two appliances (one on each side), but I only needed one for my fridge. You need a couple inches of vent space behind your fridge for air to be properly drawn in the front, over the condenser, and out the back.
To give you a better idea of how it looks, here’s an overhead shot showing how far the surge protector sticks out from the wall: So my advice to prevent this issue from happening in the future is to pick up an appliance surge protector that’s beefy enough to protect the electronics on your fridge (like the RCA fridge surge protector I got on Amazon).
When I first published this article, Radio Shack was usually the quickest and cheapest location for the capacitor you’ll need for the repair. Radio Shack has now gone the way of the Do-Do, so I’ve updated the links to other locations (such as Amazon and Dignitary) where toucan get the capacitor you’ll need.