Disc brake wobble can be a kind of “iffy” test since most rotors are manufactured with fairly thin metal and tend to warp easily. One other thing to check while you have the bike upside down or the rear wheel elevated is to check the snugness of the inner axle nut or that you haven't had a spacer break or get lost.
You'll recognize this if the whole wheel moves from side to side when holding the tire & wheel and gently shaking it in a sideways motion. I have 3 Rad Power Bikes and pretty much 1/4 -1/3 of the spokes where loose and needed to be torqued to the same level (two 2016 Ra drovers, one Rad city step-thru). I would turn the bike upside down to see how much it wobbles or if you see the tire out of round while spinning.
@mrgold35 Thank you and I actually have that same sound on one of my other bikes in the rear wheel, it stops when weight it has taken off the rear but starts when I sit down towards the rear, I checked everything and for the love of god couldn't find where this noise was coming from, I pretty much said to myself it has to be the spokes, so I will look into getting them adjusted. And for Pete's sake, buy a spoke wrench that fits your spoke nipple size and don't use pliers or an adjustable wrench.
Make sure it's the wheel that's wobbling and not a poorly seated tire giving that impression. Very hard to do when just lifting the rear wheel...the bike ideally needs to be upside down, with the handlebar resting on an open recycling box to protect the gear on the bar.
With patience, and reading or viewing truing instructions, a wheel can be straightened out, keeping in mind that spokes must be worked on in groups, not individually. Good luck, and remember deep breaths, and go slowly.
And for Pete's sake, buy a spoke wrench that fits your spoke nipple size and don't use pliers or an adjustable wrench. Actually brought the front wheel of the City to the LBS to get a Park wrench...turned out to be the blue one, which they had to order.
The only other issue with the vehicle is a rattle from the rear when going over bumps…as if there is something loose by the spare tire (but there is not). I was told that the bushings needed to be replaced, but that would cause the rattle noise only, not the issue with the shaking.
There is no problem with the front end or steering wheel shaking at all, it definitely is from the rear only. Tester July 6, 2016, 6:30am #4What might be happening is the lateral link bushings in the rear suspension are worn out.
If the bushings in these lateral links wear out, it’s the same as if a tie rod end in the front wore out. The same thing can happen if the bushings in the lateral links wear out and the rear tire (s) start shaking.
If you’ve got suspension bushings definitely needing replacement, do that first before assuming there are other problems. If I had that problem I’d jack the rear end up and spin the tires by hand, listening and feeling for anything unusual, then tug and twist on the wheels to see if there is any play.
I had a car one time that developed a severe wobbling sensation after the third member went on the fritz. First thing to do maybe is ask your shop to check the rear differential fluid level.
“George-this is a front-wheel drive vehicle-quit guessing” Curious @“VOLVO V70” about your statement above. I don’t understand why the shop would state some bushings are worn enough to cause a rattle but will not have any other effect.
Same issue as answered here, 2013 Ford Escape, shakes under Same issue as answered here, 2013 Ford Escape, shakes under acceleration (above 55mph) and only does this when weather is below freezing. Bad shimmy in rear of truck, 2008 Ford F150, Different tires, replaced all four rotors, brakes, rear shocks, took it to see if drive shaft had run-out, was told that it did not (one was Ford dealer, other was professional master mechanic with his own business).
Bad wobble when accelerating, transmission works fine, feels transmission works fine, feels like a slipped belt in a tire, but it has new tires on it. … read more I heard a clunking noise on the passenger side rear wheel.
Installed new aluminum wheels and tires with a fresh balance. 1988 ford f150: the truck runs fine but when put into gear cuts off.
The truck runs fine but when put into gear cuts off. It sounds like the transmission and engine hit eat other and shut off the truck immediately.
ASE MASTER TECH, REPAIR FACILITY OWNER 1999 Ford Ranger: 177,000 miles, it started making kind. Tire I have a 1999 Ford Ranger with 177,000 miles, it started making kind of a howling noise kind of like tire noise, but I haunt changed the tires. Now today 3 different times it was like something slipped a… read more.
1991 Ford Eurostar AWD: reverse.locking.the tires skid 1991 Ford Eurostar AWD, 4.0 L, Automatic: When turning left or right, forward or reverse, at low speeds it feels like the front-wheel drive is locking up and releasing, There is quite a thud, release, … read more The site and services are provided “as is” with no warranty or representations by JustAnswer regarding the qualifications of Experts.
JustAnswer is not intended or designed for EMERGENCY questions which should be directed immediately by telephone or in-person to qualified professionals. I was cruising around yesterday in my 69’ when 2 people pulled up and told me my wheel was wobbling.
It’s not drastic, but it’s noticeable to say the least. I checked the lugs and they are all tight. I am going to swap the rear wheels today and see if the wobble follows which I would assume means bent rim.
If the wobble stays I would assume it means bent axle? I have drums on the back, TKO600, GM 12 bolt post with 3.73... I have never noticed this before and I don’t do burnouts or drive like a wild man so IDK how I would have bent my axle.
I've had a couple of people at red lights tell me the wheel was wobbling. Bent rim, axle or as noted trim ring is not seated flat if you have that kind of rim Jack uprear end, block front tire, start car and put in gear at idle.
You can also swap rear tires doing this to see if the issue migrates over to the other side and if not the axle flange is bent or the wheel bearing is shot although that likely would be making noise I had an issue years ago with the balance weight on the drum not allowing the aftermarket rim to sit flat against the axle brake drum flange, and it too gave the impression of a bent rim and/or axle.
Once I figured out what was going on I ground the weight down and then found a local shop that could spin balance the wheel, tire, and axle flange assembly as one complete rotating mass to where the wheel balance weights were helping with any drum imbalance. They came out and crawled underneath and said just by looking at it, they can tell that my tires in the rear are showing wear of rubbing on something and that my leaf spring perch on the side the wobble is on have a broken weld that he could see was already welded once before.
They said they could just weld it strong and right, but they want to make sure that the axle and rear are fine otherwise they would just be putting a band-aid on it. They recommended me to a great shop that specializes in axles and rear dies.
I suggest you take it to the rear end shop that was recommended. An axle would have to be badly bent to see it without v-blocks and indicator (or similar) setup.
Or start by taking the wheel to a balance shop and have them spin it to see if it's bent. This is going to take physical inspection, and we can't do that on the internet.